CUTTING EDGE STYLES

In Modern Barber’s Winter Trend Report, we asked whether your clients have been keeping their hair short or embracing longer styles – to which 82% of you voted for the latter. With this in mind, we asked some influential barbers to share their longer-length trend predictions for 2024, and the tools they use to create them.

Discussing the shift towards longer styles, Ainsley Walton, winner of Photographic Image at the Modern Barber Awards 2023, explains: “I think everyone has been focused on precision haircuts for a while – especially skin fades and crops – however with the resurgence of classic hairdressing techniques in the barbering industry, I think we’re starting to see more undone hair, whether that’s a mullet, a shag, or even curtains.”

Jayson Cuzins agrees, adding: “I’ve been seeing a lot more wavy and curly cuts – I’ve had a lot of clients showing me pictures of Timothée Chalamet in particular. It’s giving me a 90s feel, but I’d say it’s less grungy and a little more polished.” However, while it can be great when a client comes in with a clear vision of what they’re looking to achieve, working with trends can also require barbers to manage expectations. “There are some lads who come in with poker-straight hair that tell me they love the wavy, textured trend,” Jayson says, “and I have to explain to them that unless they’re willing to use products and style their hair every day, it might not be achievable for them.”

It’s not just hair type that needs to be considered when clients come in requesting a particular cut; making sure the style suits your client’s face shape is equally important. “It’s important when creating these styles to understand the way the hair moves, and the structure of the face shape to create the perfect textured look for your client,” says Hayden Cassidy, adding that framing the face is also key when cutting longer styles: “I love combining a fully feathered razor cut with the perfect silhouette or a textured top with a skin fade.”

TOOLS OF THE TRADE

One of the great things about new trends emerging is that it gives barbers the opportunity to flex their creative muscles. Patrick Browne, Creative Director at Menspire Ireland, shares: “I love that no two looks are the same, it really keeps me on my toes. From the precision and sharpness of an everyday fade to the super-cool mod trims we’ve been seeing. As barbers we have to be confident with all tools to be able to create a variety of looks.”

When it comes to deciding which tools to work with, there is no ‘one size fits all’ approach, with Ainsley explaining: “It all depends on the client and their hair type, however my most used tools are a pair of Leaf Scissors, and the Calligraphy Cut razor-like blade that cuts the hair at a 21 degree angle, helping to create more movement and curl, which is perfect for some of the trends we’ve been seeing.”

Perfecting your scissor work takes time and practice – even for the more experienced barbers. Jayson explains: “I find that even when I’ve switched to a different scissor size, I need to be careful with how I’m working, so I try to stay aware of how I’m standing, how I’m using the scissors and my motion as I’m cutting, especially if I’m cutting bottom to top.”

FINISHING TOUCHES

While longer cuts can be a great option for low maintenance clients, they also offer an abundance of possibilities, if styled well. When it comes to drying and styling, Sean Davies says: “I mainly stick to a vent brush, as the teeth on this allow you to lift the hair and dry from the root upwards, allowing you to manipulate the hair into any position you want it to flow in. A circle vent brush can also be great, as this also allows you to lift the hair and dry from the root upwards – great for hairstyles like quiffs and messy fringes.” 

GET THE LOOK

The Alfa Italia Nero Scissor, available in 5.5” or 6.5”, is made from premium Japanese 440C Steel for a super smooth, effortless action, and is designed with comfort and ergonomics in mind.

RRP: £360

The Jack Dean by Denman D25 Fantail Comb features round-ended tips for damage-free styling. It can be used to detangle wet and dry hair, or create lines and definition. 

RRP: £5

The Haito KURO Offset 7” is hand-made from stainless steel, with black Teflon coating, and features an offset handle for a comfortable working position and a convex cutting edge for professional cutting. 

RRP: £30 + VAT

Cloud Nine’s Luxury Dressing Brush is perfect for use on waves and curls, as the nylon bristles help to disperse the scalps natural oils, reducing frizz. 

RRP: £40

Crafted in Japan, the Passion Cobalt Rex features a slim sword blade for the perfect combination of light weight and cutting power. It’s forged from a hardened cobalt alloy which gives its blades a powerful, precise cut.

RRP: £288

The Leaf Swivel Scissor, available in 5.5" or 6.5", utilises swivel thumb technology to reduce strain and improve user posture – ideal for intricate styles that require better control and creativity.

RRP: £400

The MATAKKI Hazuki is made from Japanese 440C Aichi steel blades, providing extreme cutting power, and is fitted with a high-grade screw assembly system to ensure correct tension is maintained.

RRP: £295