IN WITH THE OLD

JOHN HALLETT

BARBERSHOP: HAIRDRESSING FOR MEN, WEYMOUTH EXPERIENCE: 55 YEARS

John Hallett started his career in the spring of 1967 as a trainee at a salon, but when the opportunity of an apprenticeship with local barber Ken Webb became available, he jumped at the chance. He later entered a partnership with Ken before taking over the business himself.

Reflecting on those early days, John tells us the skills needed to be a barber in 1967. “When I first started I did a three-year apprenticeship at £3.50 a week, with two years of training before earning full pay of £17 a week,” he explains. “The skills at the time were very scissor and cut-throat-razor based, as the electric clipper at that time was purely for finishing off before the razor on the neck. Singeing, the art of using a candle taper to singe the ends of the hair was quite a big thing in the early sixties, but thankfully that has disappeared.”

Discussing other changes in the industry, John tells us: “When clipper attachments came in that was a real game changer, because at that time styles like a skinhead had to be done clipper over comb.” However, he admits that he still uses a large comb which he bought 55 years ago: “It’s been scrubbed, sterilised, left in Barbercide – it’s indestructible.

“KNOW YOUR CUSTOMER, KNOW HOW MUCH BANTER YOU CAN HAVE WITH THEM, LOOK AFTER THEM AND TREAT THEM LIKE A FRIEND – WHICH THEY WILL PROBABLY BECOME”

“I worked a minimum of 50 hours a week, sometimes more, starting at 7am and I loved every minute of it,” he recalls. “I’ve always said, when you dread getting up and going to work, you’re in the wrong job. I have a theory that if you’re going to interview someone for a job, do it at 7am on a Saturday, because if they can’t get up and be on time, they’re no good for this job.”

Having handed over the reigns to his son, John is optimistic about the future. “Although I have stood back, I keep a keen interest on what’s happening,” he says. “I’ve always said there are only so many things you can do with hair, but there are people still trying to reinvent the wheel. Look at the skin fade for example, it’s a short back and sides, and we were doing them 55 years ago.”

Thinking about the success of a good barber John says: “Know your customer, know how much banter you can have with them, look after them and treat them like a friend – which they will probably become. Remember events in their life – even if you have to take notes – and keep out of politics and religion. Even after 55 years, I still go in and work a couple of hours a week – happy days!”

BOBBY GORDON

BARBERSHOP: FELLA HAIR EXPERIENCE: 30 YEARS

Bobby Gordon started cutting hair in 1992, just over 30 years ago. He had always enjoyed getting his hair cut so when he left school at 16 and needed to learn a trade, hairdressing ticked all the boxes.

Discussing the early days of his career, he says, “I worked in a unisex salon in London’s West End, and I quickly realised my favourite haircuts were scissor cuts for men, but when I first started training, barbering was just one section of the qualification, you couldn’t solely focus on barbering.” Since then training has come a long way says Bobby, “It has evolved beyond your imagination. You can’t even compare my original training to what is taught today. Although, the classic barbering skills that were taught then are still very much used day-to-day.”

Having waited 16 years before opening his own business in 2008, Bobby believes new barbers would benefit from being taught basic business skills to help their future career. “There have been many challenges in my career but learning how to run a business without any guidance whilst also being the guy cutting hair at the same time was the biggest hurdle.”

When it comes to people now entering the industry, Bobby advises: “Work hard, look and listen - there is so much education available to form you into a great barber.”

He also shares his thoughts on the current state of the industry, telling us the government should be providing more support to business. “They don’t offer anything to support the industry – it was only during Covid that they finally gave us a separate sector, the ‘Personal Care Sector’. Having to pay the same amount of VAT as other sectors is crazy,” he remarks. “It is crippling for a lot of businesses that want to grow. We employ the majority of our staff because we want them to grow with us, even though it comes at a massive cost which is unsupported by the government.”

Reflecting on his experiences, Bobby concludes: “Having a great team is the key to success. We believe in growing people’s careers, honing their skills and giving them opportunities. We have barbers who have gone from apprentice to manager and ultimately partners in the business.”

“WORK HARD, LOOK AND LISTEN -THERE IS SO MUCH EDUCATION AVAILABLE TO FORM YOU INTO A GREAT BARBER”

JADE SARAH CHIDGEY

BARBERSHOP: JCS BARBERSHOP EXPERIENCE: 31 YEARS

Jade started working in a barbershop as a Saturday girl when she was 14. “When I left school at 16 I went on to do my City & Guilds and NVQs one day a week, and continued to do the rest of my training in the barbershop,” she explains. “You could only qualify by completing ladies’ and gents’ courses, not the quick courses that are promoted nowadays. Cutting was my passion - barbering was always more detailed and intricate which I enjoyed. Training has evolved massively, although not for the better, in my opinion. There is too much fast-tracking, I think experience is key.”

Jade shares the challenges she has faced in the industry, explaining: “One of my biggest challenges has been employing others – this brought many trials and tribulations. Covid was another challenge, especially with the inconsistent guidance from the government.” She also shares her tips for working through a recession. “On good weeks, put extra money by to try and cover any bad weeks you might have. Try and get three months’ worth of home and business outgoings in the bank,” she shares.

Considering her advice for the industry, Jade tells us: “You have to be good at what you do, and you have to be on top of your game. Consistency is key and professionalism is a must – but clients still love a bit of banter. I also think mental health awareness is crucial. Get some training – Idid, and I don’t regret it. Clients confide in me daily, and for your own mental health you must not carry this home with you, leave it at the salon door because tomorrow is a new day.”

IAN HARROLD

BARBERSHOP: TRADITIONS BARBER SHOP AND ATTITUDE MENS HAIR EXPERIENCE: 31 YEARS

“I didn’t know much about the industry when I started – the men’s business wasn’t as high profile as it is now. What I did like was the atmosphere, although it was hard work learning to stand up all day it never felt taxing, customers were always laughing and joking,” Ian tells us. Considering his training, he explains that techniques have changed. “I was taught how to work clipper over comb and freehand with a clipper. Now, there is a lot more focus on working with clipper attachments. I think in that we have lost some of our core skills.”

Ian has now successfully developed two brands, Traditions Barber Shop and Attitude Men’s Hair, both successful businesses, although they have not been without their challenges. “The biggest challenge of my career to date was the pandemic. In business, there are a lot of things that nobody teaches you, and you have to grow and develop and find your path. But this was different – it had never happened before and there was an element of fear for everyone. Nobody prepared me for what was next, or how to feel or behave, or how to support my team. For the first time, I didn’t feel in control of my company’s future – but we all got through it together,” he explains. “The recession of 2008 was tough, but it helped me focus on what was important. The biggest tip I have is know your numbers – it’s vital to understand what you are spending money on as well as knowing how much money you are making. Keep your clients engaged by rebooking them before they leave - and don’t discount. Ensure the brands you stock provide good support, not just freebies but business know-how, and don’t stop educating yourself and your team. Look at successful people or businesses outside our industry and see what they do differently.”

When it comes to qualifications, Ian believes that better regulation would benefit the industry. He says: “If I could ask the government for one thing, it would be to stop official awarding bodies allowing companies to give NVQ qualifications to people in 12 weeks and saying they are shopfloor ready. This is cheapening our profession and leaving poorly trained people disillusioned. The government should also look at the VAT, because if you run your business correctly, we are one of the highest taxed industries in the UK. After that, leave us to build an industry of diversity and creativity that we know it to be.”

NEW KID ON THE BLOCK DAN ARTES

BARBERSHOP: BARBER AT MARLEY MAYER SALON EXPERIENCE: THREE YEARS,

Dan Artes has been working in the industry for three years and was trained by a traditional barber. Discussing his journey and learning from someone with a wealth of experience, he says: “I completed my training with Simon Roberts – who had been cutting my hair since I was about 13 years old. He has very traditional methods, which was something that appealed to me. He would stay open late four times a week to train me up from scratch and gave me an insight into cutting hair traditionally.”

Reflecting on his training experience, Dan remarks: “What stood out the most was seeing the progression in myself – at first I was quite nervous but as I settled into the environment, I really loved it.” He adds: “In my current role I’ve been given an insight into modern techniques, from fading to sharper outlines. I feel as though the combination of both skillsets has really helped me establish myself and gain confidence, and I’m excited to see how far I can go.”