SHOP FLOOR STEP-BY-STEP | Pocketmags.com
Modern Barber
Modern Barber


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SHOP FLOOR STEP-BY-STEP

01 Start on freshly washed hair and section it to create room to work.

02 Then take a section from the crown to the back of the ear and another section from the recession to the line to create the perfect panel to start.

03 Using a wide tooth comb begin with scissor over comb technique, slowly scooping your comb in an outward motion. This removes the bulk of the hair and also in turn creates weight for you to work with later. 

04 Now you’ve created your shape using scissors and comb, you can start taking sections from the remaining length using the side panel as a guideline. By overdirecting each section, it allows you to keep the length through the back which you will need to keep for this cut.

05 Next, start to take sections an inch above the recession running parallel with the last and over direct to meet your guideline. Use a point cut method to remove bulk and allow the hair to blend more easily. By bringing sections to the guideline, it allows you to keep lots of the length on top.

06 Now take your profile section an inch wide, this determines the length on top and also means you can use it as a guideline when connecting to the back area.

07 The guideline allows you to connect the top section to the back section. Always point cut as you go to create softness.

08 Using a V section, comb all the hair forward and lift the section up to create maximum softness. Continue this until there is no hair left to bring forward.

09 For the finishing touches, slice in to the hairline freehand to create as much softness and texture as possible.

10 To create more texture, twist small hair sections in the bulkier areas, this allows you to keep length but take out weight and create texture.

11 Finally, using detailers, carefully clean the hairline around the ear and on the neck to make the cut clean.

12 To style, use a tiny amount of KEVIN.MURPHY Night Rider Paste on your finger to flick and tweak the hair to give the perfect finishing touch. 

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This article appears in the Issue 28 October - December 2020 Issue of Modern Barber


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